What’s the deal with heavyweight denim?

Is it a rite of passage? A macho thing to show off who can go heaviest? Or is it the perceived higher value—like remote controls that have weight added because it makes us think they’re higher quality?

It might be because of the fades? But there’s no direct correlation between higher weight and “better” fades. While heavier denim holds creases better, many other factors contribute to the “quality” of your fades.

One thing’s for sure: It’s not about comfort.

Say whaterver you want, heavyweight denim just isn’t as comfortable as lighter weights. Especially in the warmer seasons and hot climates, wearing heavyweight denim can feel like self-inflicted torture.

If you’re with me so far, this guide is for you. I’ve found what I think are some of the best lightweight raw denim jeans out there that offer both comfort and style.

All are 12 oz. or less, perfect for year-round wear, these jeans provide exceptional comfort and the promise of great fades.

My absolute top three are listed below. But you can read the full guide here.

BUYING GUIDE

BENZAK BDD-707 (Classic Straight, 12 oz.)

I’ve known Lennaert (aka the founder of BENZAK) ever since he launched his quasi-eponymous brand, and this is my favourite among all the beautiful jeans he’s put out.

Fit: Classic Straight

The BDD-707 features a classic straight-leg fit, perfectly balancing comfort and style. It’s a timeless silhouette that works for almost any occasion.

Fabric: 12 oz. Unsanforized One-Washed Selvedge

This unsanforized 12 oz. right-hand twill (RHT) is a lighter version of BENZAK’s renowned 14 oz. special #1. With a loose weave construction and irregular yarns, it offers a gorgeous vintage-like look. 

The one-wash treatment provides immediate comfort and reduces break-in time, giving the denim a deep blue colour with lighter tones that will further evolve with wear and washes.

Details

• BENZAK’s Signature 6th Pocket: A functional and stylish addition that sets these jeans apart.

• 4-Button Fly: Explicitly designed with four buttons on the fly plus a top button, staying true to BENZAK’s commitment to detail.

• Vintage-Inspired Patch: Features a lovely bull logo patch made from jacron, adding a touch of vintage charm.

• Made in Japan: Entirely crafted in Japan, reflecting superior craftsmanship.

• Hefty Pocket Lining: 8 oz. chambray pocket lining adds durability and a premium feel.

Verdict: Best BENZAK (period)

The BENZAK BDD-707 jeans combine vintage aesthetics with modern comfort. The blend of low-tension unsanforized denim and one-wash treatment results in a pair of jeans that are not only visually stunning but also comfortable from the get-go. Perfect for those who appreciate meticulous craftsmanship and a classic fit.

If you prefer a tapered fit, the 12 oz. denim is also available in the BDD-710.

Studio D’Artisan SD-502 (Loose Straight, 12 oz.)

Studio D’Artisan, one of the pioneers of the Japanese denim scene, has been crafting exceptional jeans since 1979. With a focus on traditional techniques and meticulous attention to detail, SDA continues to set the standard in the world of selvedge denim.

Fit: Loose Straight

The SD-502 features a breezy loose straight fit, offering ample room for comfort without sacrificing style. It’s ideal for those who appreciate a relaxed silhouette—plus the looser fit is obviously more airy in the heat.

Fabric: 12 oz. One-Washed Japanese Selvedge

Crafted from 12 oz. unsanforized original SDA selvedge denim that’s been one-washed for immediate comfort. This fabric showcases the rich heritage of Japanese denim, offering long-lasting yet comfortable wear right from the start.

Details

• Leather Patch: Classic and durable, adding a touch of authenticity.

• Button Fly: Traditional button fly for that genuine vintage feel.

• Punch-Through Rivets: Well, of course.

• Selvedge Coin Pocket: Subtle yet stylish, with selvedge on the coin pocket (no peek-a-boo).

• Detail-Driven Construction: Raised belt loops, hidden rivets, chainstitched construction, and back pocket arcuates highlight SDA’s commitment to craftsmanship.

Verdict: Best Vintage-Inspired Loose Fit

The Studio D’Artisan SD-502 jeans are a testament to the brand’s long-standing heritage and dedication to quality. With a loose straight fit and rich detailing, these jeans offer a perfect blend of comfort and classic style. Ideal for those who value the legacy and craftsmanship of one of Japan’s oldest denim brands.

Japan Blue J308 (Classic Straight, 9 oz.)

If you’re looking for denim that’s cool, comfortable, and still packs that raw denim punch, this is it. Designed with a unique curved waistband and crafted from premium Côte d’Ivoire cotton, these jeans are set to become your warm-weather favourite.

Fit: Classic Straight

The classic straight fit offers room to move without making you look like you borrowed your dad’s jeans. The curved waistband is specifically designed for Western body types, ensuring a better fit and more comfort.

Fabric: 9 oz. Japanese Selvedge

Made from 9 oz. Côte d’Ivoire cotton, known for its exceptional quality and softness. This lightweight denim offers great breathability thanks to the light yarns, keeping you cool even when the sun’s blazing. And with the rope-dyed process, you can still look forward to those beautiful, unique fades.

Details

• Lightweight Construction: At 9 oz., these jeans give you the raw denim experience without the weight.

• Selvedge and Inseam: Classic selvedge ID on the outseam and blue thread on the inseam.

• Zip Fly: For quicker action, I guess.

• Minimalist Design: Clean lines and minimal branding, letting the superior fabric and construction speak for themselves.

Verdict: Best Super Lightweight Selvedge

The Japan Blue J308 9 oz. jeans are a summer essential for denim lovers. The combination of Côte d’Ivoire cotton and Japanese craftsmanship results in a pair of jeans that are not only comfortable and breathable but also capable of developing stunning fades.

The 9 oz. denim is also available in other cuts, including the J508 loose fit. 

STYLE GUIDE

Tees, Shirts and Denim Hats to Wear with Your Lightweight Jeans

You might’ve seen that I’ve also published guides to the best loopwheeled tees, short-sleeve summer shirts, my favourite shorts, and lightweight denim shirts.

I think these garms below from those guides would go well with all of the lightweight jeans I’ve found.

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