How to Break In Raw Denim Without Wrecking It

You’ve probably heard it all before:

These are the myths that get repeated in raw denim circles. Some are rooted in truth—but most just lead to stiff, smelly jeans and disappointment.

Here’s the reality: great fades don’t come from avoiding soap. They come from friction, patience, and good habits. And how you treat your jeans along the way matters as much as what they’re made from.

The raw denim WL-001 ‘Second Edition’ is made to fade. But if you want to get the best out of them, here’s how to actually break them in—without ruining the fabric or stalling your fades.

Start With the Right Jeans

Fades don’t just happen. They’re built in. With jeans like the WL-001 ‘Second Edition’, you’re already ahead.

These are raw selvedge jeans made with slubby ring-spun yarns, shuttle-loomed in Italy, and dyed with Candiani’s fade-friendly Indigo Juice process. Whether you choose raw or one-washed, they’re made to evolve.

Soak Before the First Wear

Some people skip this. Others insist on it. I say: soak them.

A cold soak—no detergent—softens the fabric, sets creases early, and helps prevent premature damage. Especially helpful with raw jeans (even sanforized ones), and it gets rid of any starch or mill residue.

Wear Them Like You Mean It

This one’s simple: the more you wear your jeans, the more they fade.

Skip the wardrobe rotation. Make these your everyday pair. Walk, sit, work, live in them. Let them crease and fold with your movements. That’s what builds personal fades.

And yeah, take that day-one photo. You’ll want it later.

Delay the Wash, But Don’t Fear It

Myth: Washing ruins fades.
Truth: Washing too soon or too hard dulls them.

My rule: Go at least 2–3 months before the first proper wash. After that? Wash when needed.

When you do:

• Turn them inside out

• Use cold water and mild detergent

• Air dry only (never machine dry)

Want to stay fully in control? Hand wash them. It’s slow, but it works.

Repair Early, Repair Often

Even tough denim breaks down. And blowouts happen when you ignore wear signs.

Catch thinning areas early—especially around the crotch, knees, and back pockets. Patch or reinforce before holes open up.

You can do it yourself (sashiko, anyone?) or take them to a repair specialist. Either way, wash them before handing them over. Tailors will thank you.

And while these jeans are built for fades, they’re not just for winter warriors. That 14.25 oz. Candiani denim is the perfect year-round go-to—it softens fast, wears cool, and delivers contrast even with regular wear.

The WL-001 ‘Second Edition’ is ready for all of this.

14.25 oz. raw selvedge from Candiani. Ring-spun, irregular yarns. Indigo Juice dye. Shuttle-loomed right-hand twill. Built for fades that tell your story.

Shipping the last week of August—just in time for Year 5 of the Indigo Invitational.

Pre-order now to get them at €180 (that’s €40 off the stock price). Your card is charged when you pre-order, but you can cancel at any time before I ship them to you.

Bryan’s Making Jeans Too!

2025 became the year I put my name on a pair of jeans. Now, Bryan Szabo—founder of the Indigo Invitational—has done the same.

He’s teamed up with Piger Works on the competition’s first-ever collab jeans: the F2F20. It’s a 20 oz. heavyweight beast with a bark-dyed weft and a brand-new fit Bryan helped design himself.

Two very different pairs. Same idea: jeans made for the fades.

Don’t fear water,
Thomas

P.S. We’re still in Tenerife—living poolside, hiking trails, and cruising top-down. Replies may be slow while I’m off-grid, but I’ll be back soon.